|A. E. Köchert
Birks & Sons
Black, Starr & Frost
Carl Wagner and Frédéric-Jules Rudolphi
John Rubel Co.
Marcus & Co.
Mellerio dits Meller
Oscar Heyman & Bros
Tiffany & Co.
Van Cleef & Arpels
||Marcus & Co.
Working at first for Ellemeyer, the Dresden court jeweller, Herman Marcus arrived in New York in 1850 and found employment with Tiffany & Co. and Ball Black & Co. before starting his own business with Theodore B. Starr in 1864, forming Starr & Marcus. He finally established himself in 1892 with his sons William and George Elder, founding Marcus & Co.
The gemstones quality was a matter of care for both father and sons. When Herman worked with Starr, a journalist commented “Starr and Marcus have caught the soul of the sensitive diamond and they give it a fit form”. The firm is known for having created jewels with stones as the start of their designs, each jewels being meticulously conceived with subtleties that are often not perceived at first, but become apparent on closer inspection.
In 1897, Marcus & Co. participated in the First Exhibition of the Arts and Crafts held at Copley Hall in Boston and was present at the 1900’s Paris International Exhibition. Their designs were of high quality and among the best examples of American Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts jewellery. They offered an array of revivalist style with Egyptian inspired pieces along with Renaissance revival and Mughal style jewels. They were also inspired by Japanese art, Fabergé and Lalique’s works of art.
Marcus & Co. attracted a high profile clientele throughout the twentieth century, including John D. Rockefeller and merged in 1962 with Black, Starr & Frost.
Due to their high quality gemstones, superb designs and great taste, they are considered as America’s top jewellers and their creations are displayed in famous museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of New York.